Hanalei was the first stop on the Pae ‘Āina-wide sail. The history of Hōkūleʻa staying in Hanalei goes back to the beginning. A sort of canoe genealogy that we felt in the stories, laughter, care, food, and music. Family members remembered the canoe coming to their shores many times. They told us of Uncle Bobo Ham Young and his mom, Aunty Kaleihua Ham Young, who cooked for everyone everywhere, including our kūpuna voyagers. I noticed the black wok where much of the food was prepared and wondered if it was the same one they used.

Each day was special from arrival to departure. We sailed on wa‘a Keakealani in Hanalei Bay to Waipā with 16 year old captain Keale Frank. Spent time ‘oama fishing with the kids on the pier. Seeing kids light up about voyaging tradition and culture was a very special experience while we worked with the school groups. One day in particular taught our crew about care and restoration as we voyage along our island home. It felt like an extended lei-making as we stepped off of the canoe and into the island space.

In between canoe tours, we were blessed to go on a huaka’i to Nihokū, a bird sanctuary managed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, led by Mehana Vaughan, Kaui Fu, and Billy Kinney. Aside from being amazing hosts, they are also strong community protectors and kia‘i for the land and sea and are a part of a community group called Na Kia’i o Nihokū. Nihokū is pivotal in protecting native seabird habitat and succession across the Pae ‘Āina with the largest seabird nesting colony in the Main Hawaiian Islands. We learned that it has endured a lot of change threatening its existence. However, the kūpuna of the area always had the vision to protect her. So how does a place timelessly supporting so much endure the pressure? The two keiki of the group led us to the final viewing point, and I felt hopeful for the future because it was walking in front of us. The pressure eases. The birds circled around us as we walked, so natural in their home.

I heard the manu greet us over and over again like a song we are supposed to hear. As voyagers, we know that manu are embedded in our origin stories since departure and arrival. They help us find the island, synonymous with home. So I have to imagine that this is the model; driven by love for place if we want to continue being people. Inspiring others to bloom in cultural practice and connection, so deep that the risk to protect it is worth it all. I heard the words “if not us, then who,” while folks were cooking for us and I felt it as we walked to our final point at Nihokū.

Nihokū is the same island we trim our sails to as we navigate a better future with the grace of Mehana, Ui, and Billy as they shared about the risk taking, commitment, and sacrifice to protect and preserve Nihokū. This has taken years and years of hard work and patience. It reminds me of what my teachers tell us before we depart on voyages. It demands purpose, work, time, love, and family – and it’s our practice. We are voyagers, who are navigating a deep love for place, with undying conviction and fearlessness to protect and practice what you love.

We know that this is just the beginning as we voyage through our island home and across Moananuiākea. Mahalo, Kai.